a class mustang cobra r

[american_muscle]

well first i built this cause my friend has a 600 horsepower 2003 mustang cobra not same car but close. when i saw the stats i was kinda impressed and decided to try and make it for road atlanta

the build
engine: race centrifugal super charger
           race intercooler
platform:race everything but no weight reduction

tires:race tires and upgraded tire width
rims:american racing thrust and one rim size bigger then normal

aero: rear race forza bumper, razzi side skirts, and cervini hood

which comes out to
6.7                       4.007
5.2                       8.491
5.6                       193.5
5.5                   
7.3                       113.8 ft
                           303.6 ft
                            1.11 g


i was running it with default setup on road atlanta and ran a 1.23.479 which is around 6000 on hot laps i THINK. i believe this car has some potential. i am gonna add  feuerdog's v3 setup calculator and hope i can cut off about .5 to a full second on it. please take a look and let me know wat u think

[fndrbndr]

There's not a lot to go on yet, but here are my thoughts.

1.  If you want more power, forced induction is usually going to be the last option.  If you can get there with exhaust, intake, fuel, etc., then do it that way.  Trust me.

2.  Any tracks but the most missile-friendly will favor cars with at least some weight reduction.  The Mustang, like most of the American RWD set, are a bit on the porky side.  You can only use all that hp on the back straight.

3.  How far did you upgrade the width, and which slicks did you use?  This is important, because there are multiple tire brands and (I think) multiple width upgrades for this car.

4.  You'll probably find FDog's V3 tuning calc very understeery.  V5 is much better, or at least that's the consensus.  If you do stick to V3, I find opening up the differential and getting rid of the negative toe helpful on some of the FR builds.  I'm guessing you'll want some understeer dialed in to help keep the rear from breaking loose with that much power, so it's definitely worth a shot.  Good luck.  If you have questions about the tune, it's usually easier if you post the whole tune. 

5.  If you insist on forced induction, the CS and intercooler are a decent combo.  The only thing is that lag is a beast in this game on some builds/cars, even ones that shouldn't have lag.  The intercooler helps, but again, do as much with normal aspiration as you can.  If the car already has the supercharger, keep the intercooler.

[american_muscle]

hey thanks for looking at the mustang as far as the engine upgrades i will try that i was just under a crunch for money so i will give that a try and the tires are yokohama and yes there is only one tire width upgrade. and yes i wanted to stay away from it being a missle cause i wanna use it online without any complaints and it is only running about 512 hp.and for the v5 calculator i have been lookin for it but i cant seem to find it (or maybe i looked in wrong places) and the power gets down to the ground no problem there is very little wheel spin around turns and i think it acually comes out of turns real good for bulky american car but i really thank u for taking time to tell me what u think

the tune as of right now is
tires:             29       29
gears:      default
chamber:      -1.0/-0.8
toe:              0/0
caster:          5.0
anti roll bars: F13.67  R 10.31
springs:         718.7      387.0
hieght:           5.5        5.5
rebound:        11.1        9.0
bump:            10.1       6.4
brakes      47%   at 110 pressure 
diff:            60 acc    50 dec

[fndrbndr]

Always glad to help.  Question...are you having understeer issues?  I had a similar car, and I found it WAY understeery after I started trying other tuning techniques.  Then again, it was mostly for grip, and wasn't pushing NEAR that much hp.  It was the same car and same calc, though.  I'm interested in what you're finding.

[american_muscle]

yes it does feel a bit understeery but i think that might be cause i got yokohanas and i dont think they got alot of slip angle so feels very controlled around turns.   i feel it has better turn in response then most american cars and thats with no front bumper i built it yesterday so i am still on like 30 min driving time. but also like i said it feels like the back end in planted to the ground. on road atlanta i took the last turn without letting of the gas and the back end stayed right in line (about 125 in middle of turn and 130 or 135 arcoss start finish line) but once i get some more time in it i will be able to explain better as i am not a great tuner it kinda hard for me to explain it's driving style oh ya i am also  hitting like 160 on back straight and when i have a chance i am gonna try what u said about forced induction being last choice and see if i can get anymore power/ top speed out of it but i will keep u posted

[fndrbndr]

Hm, ok, here's a thought:
Add the front bumper.  It buys a few PI points for lighter rims or something.  It also helps keep the front planted, getting rid of the understeer.  Understeer happens when the front doesn't grip as much as the back (if you're ok with a very basic explanation-others will likely go into more detail).

[Drift2XL]

Another tip would be to dump the hood for even lighter wheels.

I would like to vote for no front bumper. I have a B Class Silvia with no front bumper and it is rather racy. If you are used to a muscle car with only rear spoiler option it will feel better. Turn in isn't as sharp. You have to lead it slightly.

But then the Cobra R has a LOT more rear DF than the rest of the cars in its class. That will cut down on the top speed. The Saleen is more suited to top speed hi-jinks than the Cobra R.

Just some ideas.

[american_muscle]

um if i remember right the hood did not effect the pi at all, if it did it was only 1 or 2 i will have to go check later. it might be me but i think the heavier rims help this with wheel spin of the line and around the turns cause on exit of turn i can floor it without breaking loose.i am trying to stay away from wings as i dont wanna lose alot of top end but i might try the front bumper i think it would drop the speed rating to 6.2.

i also have a saleen but it is set up for new york and speedway it is a missle build. i was thinking about giving it a all around setup but lately i have been workin on cars then i think of another car to use and forget about the other one so nowadays i try to mess with one car at a time.but yes drift i also like the saleen and i am pretty sure that is wat i am gonna mess with next.

well i am kinda hungover so i am not sure if i am gonna hop on xbox and try anything till later

[Drift2XL]

The hood will take off at least six pounds. That's six pound of rotating weight you can take off with the lighter wheels. It helps with getting it to rev faster. And better handling due to a lighter wheel also.

RL Weight reduction priority list

#1: rotating weight - get free HP with engine and driveline parts. Lighter wheels help with turn in and road holding as well as HP gain.

#2 Get rid of weight in the excess end - Say you got a FR with a 55-45% F-R weight balance. It will help to remove weight or adjust weight to get a 51-49% or 50-50%.

#3 Just any weight at all

[bimmerlovere39]

Drift - you forgot to mention that you want to lose weight top-down, too.

Of course, for many racers, the appeal of cheap WR is greater than the appeal of more technically correct WR. 

[fndrbndr]

Um, question....

Wouldn't it be harder to lose weight in the areas where there isn't a big ol' engine sitting there weighing something?  (Obviously not a problem for MR or MA cars)

[bimmerlovere39]

 

An excellent point!  There are ways to shave weight off the front (battery relocation/lighter battery, aluminum radiator, lighter flywheel/clutch, light engine internals, stripping insulation, fender liners, etc), but, in general, I'd think the easiest place to lose weight is in the interior.

[Drift2XL]

Yes, You can do all that Bimmer. I was referring to pushing the engine back as far or through the firewall. Then build another. If you want to get rid of nose heavy. That's the #1 way to do it.

Then there is using lighter engine components. ie alum heads/block replace cast iron. Fabricated tube control arms and K member.

If you get creative you can slash the nose wieght down quite a lot.

[fndrbndr]

Both the current miata and the much-ballyhooed ZR-1 use this technique, IIRC, and I think the Z4 does as well.

[landstuhltaylor]

It's no fun changing plugs on a 350 when the back ones are underneath the windshield, even if it has longtubes.