Author Topic: Damping  (Read 3057 times)

Fit4aking

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Re: Damping
« Reply #30 on: January 04, 2010, 09:52:14 AM »
This doesn't pertain to damper tuning so much but this has been the most informative thread for suspension tuning for me so far.  I noticed something last night and was hoping to get another opinion.

While tuning an A600 Cadillac CTS-V '04 for Mugello Long I was struggling to keep the rear end under control on several of the steady state turns.  ie Sweepers.  This was no surprise to me but I saved that little tid bit of tuning for last.  I had the car set up to transition well and it has more than enough power for the long straight.  My build focus is on grip and I have both aero bits in place to help glue this thing to the track. 

My first major change to last nights session was tires.  I had the widest available fitted to the car, 275's, and I was running tire temps in the low 200's up front and hight 190's out back.  Nothing crazy but the front outside edge would push above 240's around longer sweeping turns and telemetry showed about .3 positive camber at lock.  I increased negative camber from -0.8 to -1.1 and it made the initial turn in horrible as the tire transitioned from negative camber to flat through the turn, the temps were better in the turn but worse handling led me to believe I was doing it wrong.  I watched telemetry more and determined that camber wasn't to blame, caster was.  I lowered it, raised it, and lowered it again until I was pleased with the temp/turn-in compromise.  Tire temps are still in the 200's and cornering now only raised the outside front tire temp about 9 to 12 degrees in the turns.  One little detail solved but the steady state oversteer was prevalent and hurting my lap times. 

I am consistantly at the 2 minute mark.  2:00.157 - 2:00.023 over the course of 5 laps with a 2:07.1xx opening lap.  This is a horrible time on this track, well into the 10's of thousands.  I doubt, no I'm positive, that this car will never dominate this track but the challenge is this car on this track, no exceptions.  I have to make the best of it.

So my next flag came up.  The problem is only on steady turns, sway bars must be to blame.  I had them set to a total value of 40 and biased to 55%.  22ft, 18rr.  Feuers rule of thumb is that I should stay within the 36 to 40 range so I tried to lower the overall value and try again, perhaps its too stiff.  New value 38 total, 55%. 20.9ft, 17.1rr.  Understeer due to a front end push negated the oversteer and I was much much slower.  I went the other way and increased the total to 42 and 55%. 23.1ft, 18,9rr.  Oversteer increased exponentially, even off throttle the car was rotating too much.  Back to the original value to make sure it wasn't the nut behind the wheel.  22/18 and the lap times returned to 2 minutes.  *sigh*

What to do?  I like the springs where they are, the car is balanced transitionally, the diffs are solid on and off throttle, tires are balanced, the sweepers still suck!!!  Then the light came on.  Sway bar bias.  The one constant that I hadn't changed was the 55% value.  So I re-biased the 40 total value and split it 52.5%. 21ft,19rr.  Restarted the session so I was on fresh tires and ran 4 laps.  My opening lap was slaughtered and I crossed the line at 2:05.7xx, promising.  The next lap was sub 2 minutes but just barely.  Sweepers were amazingly headache free and I was picking up the throttle much faster.  Lap 3 was 1:59.328.  One last lap push and a go-for-broke attitude ended up pushing me across the finish line at 1:58.658.  Huge gains. 

I'm on the verge of calling this thing wrapped up but wanted another opinion on the sway bar biasing before I save the tune and consider it, as good as it gets.  Any opinions on the matter would help and I'll gift anyone the build to check out if they want it.
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Open2nd

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Re: Damping
« Reply #31 on: January 04, 2010, 10:04:50 AM »
I was planning to suggest amending your bias value.  Everything you did and said indicates to me that the sway bars are the cause.

Out of curiousity, what did your new caster setting wind up at?  Your camber change from -.8 to -1.1 put your settings fairly close to what I tend to run so it has me interested in your findings there.  I have been running -1+ f/r for a bit now and I'm pretty pleased with how most of the cars respond.  I believe I'm running caster in the 5.0-5.3 range on most of these tunes.

Also, what did that 1:58 net you on the scoreboards?  That's an impressive drop in time from such a seemingly minimal adjustment.

Fit4aking

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Re: Damping
« Reply #32 on: January 04, 2010, 10:19:23 AM »
New caster ended up at 5.2.  Camber is still set at my default of -0.9ft -0.8rr.

Another interesting finding was when I was testing the car.  I tried to do it on the leaderboard section so I could monitor my improvement, HOWEVER.  You can tune your car prior to starting a leaderboard run but the tune doesn't stay with the car after you quit that session.  Having to reapply a tune between tweaks was useless so the 1:58 was done in Test Drive.  As of today that time would have put me in the 11 to 12 thousandth place range.  Not great but there are over 217,000 times on that track.  Many using the R8 or S5.  But for one little change a 2000 place leap on the leaderboard is well worth it.

Keep in mind the nut behind the wheel isn't as tight as some of you guys to there may be more time in the car, just not with me driving it.
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Blooze

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Re: Damping
« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2010, 10:49:41 AM »
If you want a change to persist from the leaderboard, you have to save it with the Setup Manager.  I think they did that on purpose.  So changes made on the fly would be temporary unless you took steps to save them.  So the series of events from the leaderboard screen would be...

  • Test it - don't like it
  • Change it and Apply it
  • Test it - don't like it
  • Change it and Apply it
  • Test it - Ah Ha, you do like it!
  • Go into Tune Setup and Save it

This way you can screw with something and not get stuck with it because you forgot to back it out.

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Open2nd

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Re: Damping
« Reply #34 on: January 04, 2010, 10:53:42 AM »
I don't think I knew tuning from the Leaderboards menu meant the tune doesn't stay with the car.

Blooze's explanation makes sense, I just don't know that I've paid that much attention to it.

feuerdog

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Re: Damping
« Reply #35 on: January 04, 2010, 12:37:55 PM »
You don't need my help Fit, everything you described is pretty much how i'd go about it too.
Your assessments are spot on as far as I can tell. You seem to have a very keen eye for "feeling" the details of a tune.

My new calcs integrate ARB bias to drivetype, so I don't need to worry too much about adjusting ARB bias after the initial setup, but it also means that ARB bias tuning is critical to that initial setup.

I think it was mentioned elsewhere, but if I were you guys, my first suspension mod and settings to any stock setup would begin with a 45%/55% ARB bias and then tune from there.
The only cars I would predict a 45/55 bias would not work well on is an already balanced 50/50 weight distribution RWD car.
To add to this ARB bias discussion, remember that spring weight bias also affects understeer/oversteer the same way ARBs do.

In short - ARBs are the inverse counterbalance to Spring bias.


 
 

Open2nd

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Re: Damping
« Reply #36 on: January 04, 2010, 01:10:28 PM »
I'm curious about your 50/50 statement FD.  I'll use my FC RX7 for example.  It is a 50% bias car from the factory.  Most, if not all, aftermarket tuner/race companies have more forward bias on their roll bars.  If this 50/50 setup is ideal, wouldn't they at least offer an even ARB set?

I understand on-road safety is key, so it could potentially rule out a few manufacturers, but on the other hand, some of these companies are performance first oriented.  Its something I've been considering for a while now, because I can't seem to make a decent argument for the reasoning..?

bimmerlovere39

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Re: Damping
« Reply #37 on: January 04, 2010, 01:41:23 PM »
Yeah, I've seen an (almost) across the board bias towards the front.  Something I've seen emphasized in Tune to Win is the idea of having a car with understeer so that there is a surplus of rear grip, enabling the car to get on the throttle more aggressively.  Maybe that's the idea here?
It is highly likely that the above post was produced with a drippy jowl.

Fit4aking

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Re: Damping
« Reply #38 on: January 04, 2010, 04:25:15 PM »
Something tells me that when I go back over a few of my current problem cars I'll find ARB bias will bring them right in line.  I don't know why I didn't think about this while I was still tuning F-class.  Damn.
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feuerdog

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Re: Damping
« Reply #39 on: January 05, 2010, 12:51:21 AM »
It actually not my best example,...but it would be the BMW M3,....with 50/50 weight, 53/47ish springs and matched damping, 50/50 ARB, and the slight bias of rear tire width, I feel that the car is almost perfectly balanced. I think mine also has low aero settings(2:3 ratio), but that isn't alot. It's everything together as a package obviously. In this case, the 53/47 spring bias accentuates the rear ARB and weakens the front. This serves two purposes, it promotes mechanical steering grip, and also corner exit acceleration grip/geometry.
A 45/55 RWD chassis I think would be the best performing car, but I haven't pursued the idea.

(Curiously,....911's have similar ARB and spring bias ratio characteristics but with a totally different weight distribution,....the reason being a major breakthrough for me in relating real world values and chassis balance to forza values. All the other chassis weight distributions are completely different btw)

The tire width and aero of the BMW keep the rear planted, and I can still tune the diff, brakes, and gearing around the remaining grip.


ALL street cars, regardless of "sportiness", are designed to understeer to some degree. Whether it be through ARB, damping, or other alignments or chassis/drivetrain characteristics, all street cars are designed to default into passive understeer state. Obviously, outside influences and driver inputs can overcome that understeer, but its still predominantly there.
Even full blown race cars when properly setup tend to favor a slight on throttle understeer condition. Mostly because ease of driving and predictability equates to speed.

Now a car like your Mazda Open2nd has a slightly different setup. The tire widths are a little different, I don't remember it having aero, and I am unfamiliar with your other brake and suspension settings. I would suspect that you are running softer rear springs,....but if you are also running a stiff front ARB then you are probably rebiasing the chassis via the dampers. More specifically very low rear rebound, and somewhat high fronts. I can only guess though based on what your comments have been.

As for basing "real world" relationships on in game cars,....i'd be very careful not to read into it too much. I am personally at fault for trying to relate what I know about modern VW/Audi/Porsche suspension components and suspension dynamics, but I now try to take what I know as only a reference for ideas, not absolutes.
In the game we tend to over bias spring values, and by doing so generally need to rebalance the cars with other settings. Also keep in mind that forza uses the same generic suspension model and geometry for all four corners of every car.
If memory serves correctly I think the real world FC RX7 uses front struts and some pretty advanced dynamic alignment settings similar to modern 911s in its independent rear.
As far as IRL aftermarket bars are concerned, remember that diameter is only one aspect of tersional resistance. ARB's can be connected at different points on a suspension geometry which alters the roll resistance. The length of the ARB arm from front-to-rear to the chassis mount can also affect torsional resistance. The amount of anti-roll is directly tied to spring strength as well. The stronger the springs the greater the torsional resistance needed to maintain the same anti-roll.

Regardless, consistency and stability of handling isn't as important in a game as it is IRL, so tuning closer to the balance of a car can extract a little potential.

I'd like to tune your cars guys, Caseys RX7 and Fits CTS-V, just to see what you think. I just need the weight, tire widths, aero values(if any), and weight distribution. I assume they are both RWD.
I'll buy em, or you can gift copies too, if you want, or you can keep the builds and tunes to yourselves too, i'd just like to throw my latest calcs at em and see what you guys have for feedback.


Fit4aking

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Re: Damping
« Reply #40 on: January 05, 2010, 08:53:08 AM »
I don't keep many secrets and I'm not at all opposed to sharing here of all places.  I'll send the car over in its entirety the next opportunity I get to hop online.  I was unable to improve on it last night but I admit I was a tad off.  By the time I warmed up it was too late to revisit the car.  I was still in the 1:59's but nowhere near the miracle lap I strung together the other night.  I applied the ARB bias to my Z4 and it came right in line.  I had just a touch of steady state oversteer on corner exit but that is completely gone now.  I did have to change both the spring rates and the ARB bias to accomplish this but the dynamic of the car improved greatly.  Funny what happens when that light goes on in your head.
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Fit4aking

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Re: Damping
« Reply #41 on: March 01, 2010, 09:25:02 AM »
Not to ressurect a defunct topic but I've gotten to a point in tuning where I encounter issues I'm not sure can be tuned out with the "few" adjustments we have in this game.

I'm still working with my B500 S281 Saleen for Sebring Short.  The car is fairly planted on that specific track.  It is more of a torque build than a cam build, sorry Blooze, I couldn't pilot your build within .800 of my fastest time but yours will do much better on top speed tracks!!

Here's the issue I'm having at the moment:

-First turn push on corner exit.  The front end is washing out even though I'm careful to stay steady on the throttle.  I think this issue only relates to slow, steady state cornering.  I've tried a bit more camber, a bit of toe out, slight rebias both ways, sway bars, all the usual suspects.  If I get the first turn dialed then the car suffers a high speed push elsewhere.  Seeing as that track has more high speed turns than slow is may not be an issue there but still a concern as that is a HUGE braking zone and getting on throttle there could prevent a pass.

-Slight off camber oversteer from both ends.  On Catalunya School, the right hander before the transition section gives me trouble depending on which line I take.  Tight, late braking and the rear end washes on throttle, wide slow entry and the front will slide out going down the hill.  In the center the car has a mix of both (scary!).  It could be inherent to the track but worth noting none the less.

-Last long sweeper before the finish line straight on Cat School.  Corner entry is solid after the transitions, sway bars keep it tight and I'm on throttle from the time the car settles in until I stop "steering" and start straightening up to go WOT.  There is a slight crest to the turn and it has a bit of decreasing radius and the car doesn't like that combination, the rear just seems to slowly float out into a mild drift, controllable, as I transition from the corner onto the straight.  Haven't adjusted the car too much for that instance as it is the polar opposite of the first issue, high speed slight oversteer.

None of these issues are deal breakers the car is very stable and I can run in the 1:10.9xx's on Sebring, and into the 47's on Cat.  Not too shabby for a non-aero muscle car on stock tires.  I'm just trying to work out the last of the minor details that I think seperates a good car from a "tuned" car.
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feuerdog

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Re: Damping
« Reply #42 on: March 01, 2010, 11:00:07 AM »

-First turn push on corner exit.  The front end is washing out even though I'm careful to stay steady on the throttle.  I think this issue only relates to slow, steady state cornering.  I've tried a bit more camber, a bit of toe out, slight rebias both ways, sway bars, all the usual suspects.  If I get the first turn dialed then the car suffers a high speed push elsewhere.  Seeing as that track has more high speed turns than slow is may not be an issue there but still a concern as that is a HUGE braking zone and getting on throttle there could prevent a pass.

Have you tried a decrease in caster?
You'll have to carefully watch your tire temperatures across the inner front tire, but if the outer edge is heating up during this push condition, then your caster may be tweaked a little high for the given camber.
The trade-off, if you are using a wheel, will be slight drop in force feedback, but it could add enough grip back into the front for a performance improvement. If you adjust too far then very tight slow speed cornering may suffer, so double check that area before you finalize.

Quote
-Slight off camber oversteer from both ends.  On Catalunya School, the right hander before the transition section gives me trouble depending on which line I take.  Tight, late braking and the rear end washes on throttle, wide slow entry and the front will slide out going down the hill.  In the center the car has a mix of both (scary!).  It could be inherent to the track but worth noting none the less.

I don't see this as a car problem, so much as it is a track feature effect. In tuning your car to handle this off-camber surface you'll need to be real careful to maintain it's current handling balance.
If anything, i'd look to the dampers first.
A VERY slight reduction(faster response) in front and rear rebound ratios overall, may improve how the car responds to the transition from the flat to the off-camber. The result won't eliminate the under/overtseer effects, but it may improve your ability to respond to the those conditions.
A slight reduction in overall ARB balance may be a second option(promote roll weight transfer).
As a last resort, I might consider softening bump damping very slightly.

Quote
-Last long sweeper before the finish line straight on Cat School.  Corner entry is solid after the transitions, sway bars keep it tight and I'm on throttle from the time the car settles in until I stop "steering" and start straightening up to go WOT.  There is a slight crest to the turn and it has a bit of decreasing radius and the car doesn't like that combination, the rear just seems to slowly float out into a mild drift, controllable, as I transition from the corner onto the straight.  Haven't adjusted the car too much for that instance as it is the polar opposite of the first issue, high speed slight oversteer.
My first thought is that the prior corrections I mentioned may solve this issue as well. Lighter(quicker) rebound damping may improve the response and feel of the car, allowing it to respond to disturbances more quickly.
What I don't understand is what crest you are referring to on the final corner of Cat.
If memory serves its a downhill entry that transitions to a flat exit. If anything, you should gain traction through the transition not lose it.

Quote
None of these issues are deal breakers the car is very stable and I can run in the 1:10.9xx's on Sebring, and into the 47's on Cat.  Not too shabby for a non-aero muscle car on stock tires.  I'm just trying to work out the last of the minor details that I think seperates a good car from a "tuned" car.

Of course, there is no one single setup that will work for all conditions, so as you know it's going to be a trade-off is handling effects no matter what the fix may be.
Every car will have certain situations where its handling prowess will be weaker. Nature of the beast stuff I think.

BarbecuePete

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Re: Damping
« Reply #43 on: March 01, 2010, 11:30:04 AM »


Quote
-Last long sweeper before the finish line straight on Cat School.  Corner entry is solid after the transitions, sway bars keep it tight and I'm on throttle from the time the car settles in until I stop "steering" and start straightening up to go WOT.  There is a slight crest to the turn and it has a bit of decreasing radius and the car doesn't like that combination, the rear just seems to slowly float out into a mild drift, controllable, as I transition from the corner onto the straight.  Haven't adjusted the car too much for that instance as it is the polar opposite of the first issue, high speed slight oversteer.

My first thought is that the prior corrections I mentioned may solve this issue as well. Lighter(quicker) rebound damping may improve the response and feel of the car, allowing it to respond to disturbances more quickly.
What I don't understand is what crest you are referring to on the final corner of Cat.
If memory serves its a downhill entry that transitions to a flat exit. If anything, you should gain traction through the transition not lose it.


I think Fit means the long right hand sweeper which is the last corner of the school track (turn 3 of the GP track).

It is a tricky corner, and I think the main issue with it is getting the turn in point right, I was tuning my C Class E-type Jaguar around there the other day. First up I was suffering with on throttle oversteer as the speed started to build and the loads increased, but this could be solved with just feathering the throttle to stop the rear wheels spinning up. After some adjustments I found if I got the line right I could hold full throttle all the way through the corner but if I was just a little off I would start to understeer off.

But then Catalunya isn't one of my best tracks anyway, I seem to be way off the pace there..
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Fit4aking

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Re: Damping
« Reply #44 on: March 01, 2010, 11:43:31 AM »
Pete's on the money with the turn I'm thinking about.  It is on the School track and it sounds like his Jag was doing the same thing as my S281.  I like that particular track due to the amount of sweepers and the uphill transition section.  It is very short, 47-48 second laps, and I have adopted it as a tuning playground for all of my cars after I set them up for whatever track they were originally built for.

I haven't messed with the Caster value too much.  I had it up around 5.3 but then moved it back to 5.0.  I will have a shot at that first and report back.  The damper settings seem spot on, or I'm just reluctant to change them due to the time spent sorting them out already.  Not that I'm opposed I just have to wrap my head around the effects and the trade offs before I jump the gun.

Once I get it wrapped up I'll post the build and toon for "proof reading".  The car won't set B-class on fire but as a tuning excersize I have learned a lot by messing with it.
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